When Are Cheeses Better During the Year?
Cheese changes with the seasons because the milk does. In summer, cows and ewes graze on fresh grass, flowers and mountain herbs, which gives richer, more complex cheeses. In winter they eat hay, and the cheeses are milder. Mountain cheeses such as Ossau-Iraty d’estive and Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage show the difference best.
Summer milk vs. winter milk: what is the difference?
When we talk about French cheeses, one of the factors that make them unique is the milk used to make them. The difference between summer and winter milk plays a big role in the taste and quality of those products. A cheese tasting at home is an exercise you can do to sharpen your senses and notice this crazy difference. This is especially true for cheeses made from milk produced in the mountains, like Ossau-Iraty “d’estive” and Beaufort “Chalet d’Alpage”. Let’s dive into how the season and the cows’ or ewes’ diet influence the flavors of these famous cheeses.
| Winter milk | Summer milk | |
|---|---|---|
| Diet | Hay, silage, sometimes cereals | Fresh grass, flowers and mountain herbs |
| Flavour | Softer, less complex | Richer, more complex |
| Fat and protein | Lower | Higher |
| Cheese | Firmer and milder | Softer, creamier, more intense |
How do season and diet change the milk?
The diet of dairy animals, changing with the seasons, directly impacts the quality of the milk and, consequently, the flavor and texture of the cheese.
Winter diet (hay and silage): During winter, animals mainly eat hay, silage, and sometimes concentrated cereals, as fresh grass is unavailable. This diet is less varied than summer grazing, resulting in:
- Softer, less complex flavors in the milk, as the variety of herbs and flowers found in fresh pasture is absent.
- Lower fat and protein content, leading to milder, less textured cheese.
Summer diet (fresh grass and mountain herbs): In summer, animals graze on fresh grass, flowers, and herbs in high-altitude pastures. This diet provides:
- Richer, more complex flavors, with the milk absorbing unique aromas from mountain plants like thyme, clover, and gentian. This results in cheeses with distinctive, difficult-to-replicate flavors, like Ossau-Iraty and Beaufort.
- Higher fat and protein levels, contributing to creamier, more flavorful cheeses.
- Improved texture as the milk becomes thicker and richer, ideal for creamy or more intensely flavored cheeses.
The shift in diet from winter to summer not only enhances the taste and richness of the cheese but also influences its texture, making summer cheeses softer and more complex, while winter cheeses are firmer and milder. Comté is a good example: I compare the two in summer Comté vs winter Comté.
Why does altitude matter for these cheeses?
Both Ossau-Iraty “d’estive” and Beaufort have strict rules about where and how the milk is produced. Ossau-Iraty “d’estive” must be made from the milk of ewes that graze in the mountain pastures of the Pyrenees during the summer months, when the flocks are on the estives.
Beaufort “Chalet d’Alpage”, on the other hand, is made from the milk of cows that graze in high alpine pastures. The cows feed on fresh mountain grasses, and the cheese is produced during the summer months. This strict control over altitude and diet helps preserve the quality and flavor of the cheese.
Why does the difference matter?
The difference between summer and winter milk is more than just about the season. The diet of the cows and ewes, combined with the altitude of the pastures, creates unique flavors that cannot be found anywhere else. Cheeses like Ossau-Iraty “d’estive” and Beaufort “Chalet d’Alpage” are excellent examples of how altitude and diet influence the final product. So, the next time you enjoy one of these cheeses, remember that the cheese you’re tasting is not just a product of the milk, but the mountain landscape and the herbs that grow there.
Both belong to the pressed cheese families described in how to choose French cheese by family, and season is one of the rules in my French cheese and wine pairing guide.
FAQ
Is cheese better in summer or in winter?
Neither is simply better. Cheese made with summer milk is usually richer and more complex, while cheese made with winter milk is milder. Aging matters too, so a summer cheese is often eaten months later.
Why does summer milk taste different?
In summer the animals graze on fresh grass, flowers and herbs instead of hay. That more varied diet changes the aromas of the milk and raises its fat and protein levels.
What does “d’estive” mean on Ossau-Iraty?
It means the cheese was made in summer from the milk of ewes grazing in the mountain pastures of the Pyrenees, called estives.
What is Beaufort Chalet d’Alpage?
It is Beaufort made in summer from the milk of cows grazing in high alpine pastures.
Taste the seasons in Paris
The tasting lasts 2 hours and includes 8 raw-milk French cheeses and 5 French wines (including one sparkling), for a maximum of 12 guests, at €69 per person. Every tasting is hosted in English by a trained cheesemonger or sommelier at 98 Rue Marcadet, 75018 Paris (Montmartre, metro Jules Joffrin, line 12), and every direct booking comes with 1 free bottle of wine (2 for groups of 6 or more).
Join a cheese and wine tasting in Paris