French Cheeses on the Brink of Extinction? What’s Really Happening to Camembert and Brie
No, Camembert and Brie are not about to disappear. What is at risk is the single white mould strain, Penicillium camemberti, that gives them their snowy rind: it has been cloned for over a century and is degenerating. The cheeses will survive, but their rinds may become less uniformly white.
France takes enormous pride in its gastronomy and cheese is at the very heart of it.
From rustic farmstead wheels to elegant cheese boards, French cheeses are more than food. They’re culture, identity, and tradition.
So when headlines started warning that Camembert and Brie could soon disappear, it understandably caused panic.
But is this really the end of our beloved soft-ripened cheeses? Let’s slow down and look at what’s actually happening.
What is the problem with Camembert’s mould?
The creamy white rind of Camembert and Brie doesn’t happen by accident. It comes from a specific fungus: Penicillium camemberti, an albino strain selected for Brie in 1898 and for Camembert in 1902, according to the CNRS.
This strain gives us the classic:
- Snowy white crust
- Soft breakdown of the paste
- Mild, mushroomy aromas
- Look consumers expect
But here’s the issue: for decades, producers have relied almost exclusively on one cloned strain of this fungus.
Unlike wild molds that reproduce naturally and evolve, this industrial strain has been copied again and again — genetically identical — since the early 20th century.
That means:
- Almost no genetic diversity
- No adaptation to modern pathogens
- A weaker biological resilience
CNRS researchers Jeanne Ropars and Tatiana Giraud report that the strain, already incapable of sexual reproduction, has also lost much of its ability to produce spores — not because Camembert is unpopular, but because its mold is biologically fragile.
Does this mean Camembert will disappear?
Short answer: No.
Camembert as a cheese style will not vanish. What may disappear is the perfectly white, uniform version we know today.
Historically, Camembert looked very different. According to the CNRS, until the 1950s Camemberts still had rinds that were:
- Grey
- Green
- Sometimes orange-tinged
- Much more diverse
It was only in the 20th century that consumers, especially in Paris, demanded a clean, white, “perfect” rind. The industry standardized everything. And that standardization is exactly what created today’s vulnerability.
Why is the real issue the loss of biodiversity?
This story isn’t just about Camembert. It’s about biodiversity in food production.
When you reduce a species — whether cows, wheat, or fungi — to one genetic line, you increase fragility.
The albino strain of P. camemberti reproduces clonally. It doesn’t evolve the way wild populations do. Over time, that makes it more vulnerable.
Uniformity can bring efficiency. But diversity brings resilience — and food systems need resilience.
What about Camembert de Normandie (AOP)?
Things get even more interesting when we look at regulation.
The AOP Camembert de Normandie requires the use of Penicillium camemberti. If the rules stay rigid, adaptation could be slower.
However, producers are not panicking. Many argue that:
- Multiple preserved strains exist in laboratories
- Research centers maintain fungal “libraries”
- Alternative strains such as Penicillium biforme could be reintroduced
So we are not facing an immediate shortage but long-term adaptation will be necessary.
How can Camembert be saved?
There are several paths forward:
1. Reintroducing genetic diversity
Allowing fungi to reproduce more naturally could help restore resilience.
2. Using older preserved strains
Research labs in France maintain collections of historic molds from previous decades.
3. Allowing alternative molds
Related species such as Penicillium biforme occur naturally in raw milk and could bring back microbial diversity.
4. Accepting aesthetic change
Future Camemberts might not be perfectly white. They could show more variation.
What does a cheesemonger think?
From my side of the counter, here’s what matters: cheese has always evolved.
Traditional raw milk Camemberts already show more variation than industrial ones. Some are creamier, some more mushroomy, some more rustic and that’s part of the magic. Camembert de Normandie is one of the 25 French cheeses I consider essential.
People often think tradition means “unchanged forever.” In reality, tradition means constant adaptation within a cultural framework.
Camembert has survived industrialization, refrigeration, and globalization. It will survive this too and maybe come back more alive again!
Funky, colorful Camembert or no Camembert at all?
If you had to choose:
- A perfectly white but fragile cheese
- Or a slightly wild, colorful, resilient one
What would you pick?
Personally, I’ll always choose biodiversity. Because diversity is flavor. And flavor is life.
In short
- The albino strain of Penicillium camemberti has very low genetic diversity.
- Researchers warn it is weakening.
- Camembert and Brie will not disappear — but their “perfect white” look may evolve.
- Solutions exist: preserved strains, alternative molds, and more biodiversity.
- The future may look less uniform — and more interesting.
To place Camembert and Brie among the other bloomy-rind cheeses, see my guide to choosing French cheese by family, or start with these 8 essential French cheeses.
FAQ
Is Camembert really going extinct?
No. The cheese itself is not disappearing. The risk concerns the single white mould strain used to ripen it, which is becoming harder to grow.
Why is Penicillium camemberti fragile?
The white strain has only been replicated by cloning since it was selected around 1900. According to the CNRS, it cannot reproduce sexually and has lost much of its ability to produce spores.
Is Brie affected too?
Yes. Brie relies on the same white mould, which was first selected for Brie cheeses. Any solution found for Camembert applies to Brie as well.
What could Camembert look like in the future?
Its rind could be less uniformly white, with grey, green or orange tints, as it was until the 1950s. The flavour could also become more varied.
Taste traditional cheeses in Paris
If you’d like to taste traditional raw-milk cheeses in Paris and understand how they really work, join me in Montmartre. The tasting lasts 2 hours and includes 8 raw-milk French cheeses and 5 French wines (including one sparkling), for a maximum of 12 guests, at €69 per person. Every tasting is hosted in English by a trained cheesemonger or sommelier at 98 Rue Marcadet, 75018 Paris (Montmartre, metro Jules Joffrin, line 12), and every direct booking comes with 1 free bottle of wine (2 for groups of 6 or more).
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